Gervase, I’m pleased to be helping & evaluating the Sharpedge. Its an interesting challenge and I have made real progress in my long term quest for a convenient / effective re-sharpening system.

I am now much more relaxed about the ever ongoing need to keep blades sharp.
I’ve had mirror quality backs to my blades for almost a decade AND ultra sharp cutting edges – but hitherto the quest for a quick / convenient system with which a specific angle of bevel can be produced time and again has hitherto eluded me. It’s THIS aspect that makes your device so valuable.
Suddenly every one of my handplanes is ultra sharp – and with the minimal messing about.
I have now sharpened a 2 +3/8″ Ray Iles blade with your device.
I am pleased to report I encountered no problems. I sharpened the blade with 6 passes.
To my surprise I found it easier than sharpening the Lie Nielsen blades.
Because I had had such problems flattening the back of the Ray Iles blade to produce a consistent mirror finish, I had concluded that the blade was extra hard.
Using your jig established very quickly that this was not so.
I now realise that the problems in flattening the back of the blade was due to the back being LESS flat than other makes of blade. I particularly recall the milling marks across the back which took a long time to remove.
So overall what are my conclusions?
Just this, that your device has completely transformed the sharpening of my handplane blades.
I have found Camelia oil helpful in lubricating the sliding mechanism.
The speed with which one can set or alter the honing angle is a major advantage.
My long term quest to find a way of conveniently and quickly creating secondary bevels, and RE-sharpening handplane blades, is COMPLETELY SOLVED !!

OK, I still remove the burrs quickly with my 6000 grit Japanese waterstone. And I still strop the resultant bevels with a 12 inch leather strop, BUT that is my choice. I’m a perfectionist and I always use an amalgam of techniques. Nothing is ever going to change my way of doing things.
Two sorts of  woodworker are going to buy your device. The majority will be your average Joe Public who will as a matter of convenience use your backing tool. A small minority will be bods like me.
Overall your device is as important to my cabinetmaking as my Tormek grinder and my 6000 grit Japanese waterstone.
Best wishes,
Robert

One comment

  1. Robert Davey

    Gevase,

    I was aware that my comments were a bit disjointed and that is reflected in your extract from my e-mails. I have re-jigged my comments and may I please suggest the following text :

    “I’ve had mirror quality backs to my blades for almost a decade AND ultra sharp cutting edges – but my quest for an ultra convenient system with which to reproduce a specific bevel angle, time and again, has hitherto eluded me – until I bought your Sharp Edge device.

    Almost overnight every one of my handplane blades is ultra sharp – and with minimal messing about. I’m now far more relaxed about the ongoing need to keep my blades sharp. Its no longer the tiresome task it was.

    I’ve sharpened a 2 +3/8? Ray Iles blade with your device and I encountered no problems – sharpening the blade with 6 passes of each diamond hone.

    Likewise I’ve put a beautiful edge on every one of my Clifton blades. Your device is absolutely ideal for their hand forged blades.

    I’ve also successfully re-sharpened the blades to my Veritas, and my Lie Nielsen, hand planes although the Lie Nielsen blades required more effort – perhaps because they have been cryogenically hardened.

    I’ve found Camelia oil helpful in lubricating the sliding mechanism, as well as keeping my blades corrosion free. And the speed one can set or alter the honing angle is a major advantage !

    So overall what are my conclusions?

    Just this, that your device has completely transformed the resharpening of my handplane blades.My long term quest to find a way of conveniently and quickly resharpening handplane blades, and of creating secondary bevels, is COMPLETELY SOLVED !!

    OK, I still remove the burrs quickly by means of my 6000 grit Japanese waterstone. And I still strop the resultant bevels with a 12 inch leather strop, BUT that’s my choice. I’m a perfectionist and I always use an amalgam of techniques. Nothing is ever going to change the way I do things.

    Two sorts of woodworker are going to buy your device. The majority will be your average Joe Public who will, as a matter of convenience, use the backing tool which comes with your device. A small minority like myself will continue to remove the burr by other means.

    Overall your device is as important to my cabinetmaking as my Tormek grinder and my 6000 grit Japanese waterstone.

    Best wishes,
    Robert ”

    I hope you will find the redraft helpful. I have deliberately removed the negative comments about the back of my Ray Iles blade as I felt it might be unfair. No-one else would have gone to the trouble I went to in flattening the back.

    Robert